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Лисянский Юрий Фёдорович - Voyage round the world..., Страница 5

Лисянский Юрий Фёдорович - Voyage round the world...


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en to thirteen feet. Besides these formidable weapons, the islanders are expert in throwing stones from slings made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut. Though not deficient in courage, they never fight openly. They are very much afraid of fire-arms, the destructive power of which they learned some time since from an American ship, from which a shot was fired that killed one of the royal family, whilst he was swimming about with a great many others of his countrymen. The circumstance was this: One of the islanders threw a bread-fruit on board, which struck the captain, who was walking on the quarter-deck. The sentinel, seeing this, instantly discharged his musket, and, missing the guilty person, unfortunately shot a brother of the king. This has produced such an effect, that the sight alone of fire-arms is sufficient to keep the whole island in awe.
   The simplicity of this people is astonishing. Their actions seem the result of instinct, rather than of common sense; which makes them often commit faults, ruinous even to themselves. Theft is so common amongst them, that hardly any thing is safe in their houses, especially in time of scarcity. Roberts assured me, that tire island would abound with swine, if the young ones were not stolen, and then eaten to prevent detection. I can easily credit this propensity to thieving, when I recollect, that the king's brother himself stole a piece of sugar from me, and, being accused of the crime, endeavoured, in the most barefaced manner, to persuade me that it was committed by a duck which I had given him, and which was then under his arm.
   It is proved by facts that ignorance is the mother of superstition. It will therefore excite no astonishment that the inhabitants of Noocahiva should possess this quality in the highest degree. Every one here is persuaded, that the soul of a grandfather is transmitted by Nature into the body of his grandchildren; and that, if an unfruitful wife, were to place herself under the corpse of her deceased grandfather, she would be sure to become pregnant It is also a current opinion, that there are individuals on the island who can cure the effects of the strongest poison, by simply rubbing the sides of the patient with their hands, which is supposed to make the poison come out from under the ribs. But the belief in evil spirits has the greatest weight, and is carried to the greatest absurdity amongst them; for it is imagined, that these spirits come sometimes into houses, and by whistling, and other more tremendous noises, demand pork and cava or ava, which, being placed in the middle of the room and covered, are immediately devoured by them. Surely these instances prove how insignificant, in its natural state, is the human understanding.
   I saw none of the war-canoes of this place, and can therefore say nothing respecting them; but the common canoe is long and narrow, the bottom made out of a single tree, and fastened to the sides, by inserting a piece of small twine through numerous holes. The head resembles that of a galley, and to the stern a crooked piece of wood is fixed, through which runs the sheet of a triangular sail, made of matting. These narrow boats are well balanced by three long poles laid across, to the ends of which, on one side, is fastened a piece of wood.
   The island of Noocahiva produces all the necessaries of life. It has excellent fresh water, and in such abundance, that it flows down in cascades from different elevations, greatly tending to beautify in many places the views of the coast The climate is so salubrious that, by Roberts's account, many live here to the age of a hundred years. I saw myself the king's mother, who was about eighty, and did not yet think herself very old.
   Having had but little leisure for minute inquiries respecting the vegetable kingdom in this part of the globe, I shall content myself with describing the few articles only that came within my observation.
  

TREES.

  
   Toomeamey, or Bread-fruit-tree. The branches of this tree spread out widely, and the leaves resemble those of the fig-tree, but are of a larger size, and of a deeper green. Its fruit is of an oblong figure, measuring lengthwise from five inches and a half to six inches and a half, and breadthwise from four to five inches; it is of a light green colour, but turns black after two or three days keeping. This useful tree, I was told, bears fruit here three times in the year. The first and the best crop, called by the natives mainooé, ripens about our January. The second, which is the poorest, about the middle of June; and the third, about September. From the bark, a sort of thick brown cloth is made, which is sometimes dyed yellow.
   Toomooehee, or Cocoa-nut-tree: too well known in Europe, to require a description.
   Maeeca, or Plantains. There are many sorts of this tree here; the fruit of some of which is nine inches long, and seven and a half round.
   Toomooishee. A kind of Chestnut-tree, that bears fruit in the months of May and November.
   Timanoo. A firm strong tree, growing sometimes to nine feet in circumference. It is only used for building war-canoes, and is forbidden to be cut fear any other purpose.
   Toomoomyee. Of this tree the common canoes are made.
   Kenai. A soft tree, used for small canoes, and other unimportant works: it takes root as easily as our willow.
   Pooadea. This is the largest tree on the island. Its trunk, I was told, measures in some instances thirty feet in circumference: the branches, which Me only allowed to be cut for religious ceremonies, spread wide, and are well adapted to give shade to burying-grounds.
   Cogoo. This tree is used for fire-wood. It bears a black berry, which is mixed with a certain odoriferous root, and used for painting the skin yellow.
   Toar. A tree of which all the implements of war are made, on account of its hardness.
   Fow. A tree of a middling size, from the bark of the branches of which threads for fishing-lines and nets are made.
   Booty. From the bark of this tree, the best cloth is made. The manner of manufacturing it is similar to that which has been described by several navigators, as practised in the Sandwich Islands.
   Earna. The fruit of this tree answers the purpose of candles. It resembles small chestnuts, which, when peeled, stuck one upon another on a stick, and set on fire, burn in succession, and give an excellent light.
   Hiaba. A large tree, the bark of which is used for making short pieces of cloth, such as the islanders sometimes tie round the waist.
   Foa. This tree produces a very handsome fruit, pieces of which being strung together, are used, on festivals, as wreaths for the head, and ornaments for the neck.
  

ROOTS.

  
   Taoo. A sort of yam. Its leaves may answer the purpose of brocoli, which it resembles in taste.
   Carpi. This root is about three feet long. The greater part of it grows out of the ground. It takes twelve months to ripen, and is made into puddings, or prepared like yams.
   Hoi. A kind of wild potatoe, which has a bitter taste, and affords but little nourishment. It is only used by the islanders in times of famine.
   Titou. A root that grows wild in the fields, and resembles our turnip.
   Togoogoo. A root of the size of a cocoa-nut without its husk: when boiled, it turns to a sort of pudding.
   There is only one species of salad herb on the island, that is calculated for the table. It is called emahé, and considerably resembles our field-mustard.
   Knowing from experience how necessary the language of a country is to a person who travels in it, especially where no assistance can be obtained, except what some lucky chance may present, as, for instance, our interpreter Roberts; I endeavoured to collect as many words and sentences of the language of this island as possible, which I shall give in the Appendix, in the hope of their being useful to future navigators.
   During our stay at Tayohaia, I could make no observations on shore: however, having taken a great many lunar distances the day before our arrival at the island of Noocahiva, we were enabled to lay down with great precision the island of Motané. From thence we took bearings of all the other islands as they came in sight, and found their latitude and longitude to be as follows:

Lat. S.

Long. W.

   East end of the island of Fatoohiva

10° 28'

138° 18'

   South end of Motané

10 0

138 30

   East end of Touata

9 59

138 45

   East end of Hoivahova

9 45

138 26 1/2

   South end of Ooahoona

8 56

139 12

   The entrance of the bay of Tayohaia

8 56

139 40

   North end of Ooaboa

9 19

139 40 1/2

   The middle of Fatoohoo

9 27

138 31

  
   The variation of the compass, according to different azimuths, was 6° east.
  

CHAPTER VI.

PASSAGE FROM THE WASHINGTON ISLANDS TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

  
   Nautical Difficulties on leaving Noocahiva. Search in vain for an unknown Land, seen by Marchand. Surprise of my Crew at the Sight of a Shark which we caught. Make the Island of Owyhee. The Nadejda leaves us to proceed to Camchatca. Anchor in the Bay of Carocacoa. Traffic with the Inhabitants. Reason for refusing to admit Women on Board. Excursion on Shore with the Chief of the Bay. Habitations. Temples. Visited by Mr. Young, who governs the Island in the Absence of the King. Village of Tavaroa. Leave Owyhee. Island of Otooway. Visited by its King. Island of Onihoo
  

1804. May. 17th.

   At five o'clock in the morning of the 17th, we unmoored, and about nine got under way. The wind was in so unsettled a state, that it flew round the compass, and obliged me to warp out of the bay; which would have been effected with ease, but for the necessity I was under of bringing-to again, to assist the Nadejda, who, by keeping under sail, instead of warping, had drifted too near the shore. This accident prevented our being out to sea till night.
   The king remained on board with me till it was dark. He was very facetious upon the visit the ladies had made me, observing repeatedly how uncommonly satisfied they had been with our treatment, and especially the Goddess, round whose neck I had tied a piece of gold twist.
   During our warping out of the harbour, one of the warps gave way, and immediately the king sent his canoe on shore for a diver, to assist us in recovering it. This was by no means necessary, as we could easily have found it with our grapplings; but the king's intentions were so friendly, that I did not oppose them; and, in recompence, I gave both him and the diver some pieces of iron, which pleased his majesty so much that he left the ship in high glee; though he took no leave of us, but jumped overboard, as in every preceding instance, and swam to the shore.
   At ten o'clock we hove-to in the offing, to hoist in our boats, and wait for the Nadejda, who had been obliged to remain at anchor all night.

18th.

   Early in the morning of the 18th the wind blew at east-southeast, and the weather was so squally, that we were obliged to be constantly employed about our sails: this was the only inconvenience we had to suffer, as we then stood almost in the middle between the islands of Ooaboa and Noocahiva. At nine o'clock we saw our friend the Nadejda, who had brought-to under the shore, to hoist in her boats. Having joined her, we doubled the south-west end of Noocahiva; and I intended to have steered to the northward, under the idea of ascertaining the position of the cape I had seen on the 8th instant, on the north side of the island; but observing captain Krusenstern to bear away to the west-south-west, I abandoned my design. I had the satisfaction, however, of determining the latitude of the south-west end of Noocahiva, which I found to be 8° 39' south.
   Before our departure from Tayohaia, it bad been settled that the two vessels should steer west-south-west, to the distance of three degrees, at least; in order to ascertain the supposed-existence of an unknown land, mentioned in Marchand's Voyage.

19th.

   On the 19th we had easterly wind and fine weather, and at eight o'clock in the evening had made the proposed distance to the westward; but seeing no appearance of land, we tacked, and took a direct course to the Sandwich Islands. Having been destitute of fresh cheat since we left St. Catharine. I ordered cocoa-nuts and bananas to be distributed amongst the ship's company every day, and essence of malt to be used at breakfast.

26th.

   On the 26th we crossed the equator; and at noon, by observation, were in 56 north, and 146° 12' west. This day was remarkable for our catching a shark. My people, who had never seen a fish of this kind, out of the water, were very much struck at its appearance. A Tartar, one of the Crew, swore it was the devil, and advised our throwing it overboard again. I ordered it, however, to be cut up, and some of the best pieces to be cooked for dinner; and, to my great satisfaction. I found that every one oh board but myself was pleased with his meal.

June. 3d.

   On the 3d of June the wind settled to the north-east, and the weather, which had been changeable for the last four days, became so fine, that we had nothing to wish for, but a speedy arrival at the Sandwich Islands. We were a little surprised at not finding the usual south-east trade-wind. We had, however, in its stead, light breezes from the north-east, that completely answered our purpose. I observed, that, after having crossed the line, the weather was colder, by several degrees, than we had found it in the southern hemisphere; and to this I attributed our not seeing either birds or fish of any kind, which, in similar climates, had always followed us in great quantities.

8th.

   At nine o'clock in the morning of the 8th, we descried the island of Owyhee to the north-west; and at noon the east end of it bore from us, by the compass, north 3° west, twenty miles distant. By observation, we were in latitude 19° 10' north, and in longitude, by the chronometer, No. 136, 153° 51', and by No. 50, 154° 5' west; by which it appeared, that the first was sixty, and the last forty-six miles to the eastward of the true longitude. This, however, was but a trifle in comparison of our ship's reckoning, which was found to be 5° 39' to the eastward.
   At two o'clock in the afternoon we were so near the shore, that we could distinguish the habitations, which were numerous, and some of them charmingly situated. We were visited here by six canoes, containing two or three men each. These persons accosted us with as much familiarity, as if we had been acquainted with them for years. On coming on deck, they shook hands with every one they saw, repeating the word, how-lo-lo, meaning, as I conceived, how do you do. They brought us, however, no fresh provisions; and it seemed as if the sole object of their visit was to inquire who we were. Having satisfied their curiosity, they left us, and we proceeded in our course; but the weather becoming thick and rainy about sun-set, we determined to keep in good offings for the night.

9th.

   At day-light we approached the shore; and at eleven o'clock saw the south-west end of the island, which appeared like two eminences rising beyond the south point, which is low compared with the adjacent land. We passed the south point about noon, and brought-to, to wait for some canoes that were paddling towards us. Two of these came alongside of the Nadejda, and proposed exchanging a large hog, they had brought with them, for some woollen cloth; but finding their wish could not be complied with, they carried the hog back, refusing every other article that was offered for it. At four in the afternoon we sailed along the shore, to induce other canoes to come out with fresh provisions, of which both ships were much in want, but especially the Nadejda, whose officers had subsisted on salt meat alone for some time; but, unfortunately, not a soul appeared till late in the evening, when we were obliged to steer off shore. From the observation of this day, the south point of the island was 18° 35' north.

10th.

   The light breezes, which prevailed during the whole of the next day, would not permit us to get near the shore. At noon we brought the south point of the island to bear north 79° east, and by observation were in latitude 18° 58' north. Towards evening, captain Krusenstern took leave of me, intending to sail for Camchatca in the night. I urged him to stop a few days longer to refresh himself, but I could not prevail; and a favourable wind from the east springing up about eight o'clock, he shaped his course accordingly, and departed.

11th.

   Having found, by experience, that, nothing could be obtained by cruizing round the coast, I detertnined, on the 11th, to come to anchor, and for that purpose steered for the bay of Caracacoa.
   On drawing near the shore, a canoe came along-side from a village, called Pereerooa, not far from, the south-west point. In this canoe, were an Englishman, of the name of Johyos, and a native, who called, himself George Keroick, This native, spoke the English language remarkably well, having been seven-years in England, whither, he said, he had been carried by. captain Paget. My first questions related to the present state of Owyhee, as to provisions; and I was glad to find, that, though the king and all the nobles were then on the island of Wahoo, in consequence of a war with the inhabitants of Otooway, I might be sure of procuring all sorts of refreshments, and on reasonable terms. He added that, during the king's absence, the island was governed by an Englishman of the name of Young, who would no doubt come on board to pay his respects, the moment our arrival should be known to him. Soon after the first canoe left us, three others of a similar description came off, and brought with them three small pigs, which I purchased for eight yards of common Russian cloth.
   In the mean time the wind shifted a head, and obliged us to tack. At noon, having, the bay of Caracacoa north 15° east, at out ten miles distant, we found ourselves, by observation, in 19° 17' 8" north. Soon after, the wind, inclining again a little to the westward, allowed me to steer for the anchorage; which, however, I could not have fetched, but for a strong, current to the northward, that, it is said, always, prevails here. Sailing quite close in shore, we had two boats towing a-head, and we kept the ship by the wind till five o'clock, when, having passed the south point of the bay, we dropped anchor in seventeen fathoms; the south point bearing south, and the north point north 80° west. Before night the ship was moored north-northeast and south-south-west, with three quarters of a cable each way. The decreasing depth of water as we entered the bay, was forty, thirty-five, twenty-eight, twenty-two, and seventeen fathoms, over a bottom of sand and shells.
   From the accounts of former navigators, I expected to have been surrounded by the natives as soon as the ship had dropped anchor; but to our good fortune, not an individual was seen till after sun-set; which, I found, was owing to the taboo. I call it good fortune, because we were enabled to secure the ship without molestation. Just before dark, a company of about a hundred young women made their appearance in the watery swimming towards our vessel, and exhibiting, as they approached us, the moot unequivocal tokens of pleasure, not doubting of admittance. It was with a degree of regret that I felt myself obliged to give a damp to their joy: but I was too firm in the resolution I had formed, not to permit licentious1 intercourse on boards to be won from it by, any allurements or entreaties, by any expression of joy or of sorrow; and this troop of nymphs were compelled to return with an affront offered to their charms, which they had never experienced before, perhaps, from any European ship.

12th.

   The next morning, believing the taboo to be still in force, I was preparing to go on shore; when I found the vessel surrounded by canoes, furnished with different articles for sale. In consequence, I altered my intention, and commenced the necessary and important business of traffic. As none of the canoes brought any live stock, I was induced to ask the reason; and was given to understand, that Mr. Young had forbidden any pigs to be sold to ships that might arrive, without his express permission. As it was uncertain when this important personage might be at the bay, I dispatched Mr. Johns, an Englishman, who had engaged to remain with me as interpreter, to the chief of the bay, to inform him, that if I could not be supplied with fresh provision here, I should put to sea in the night, to seek this commodity in some more hospitable place. My message had the desired effect. The chief came shortly after on board, and presented me with two middling-sized hogs, and a considerable quantity of different sorts of vegetables. I paid him great attention, and presented him in return with three bottles of rum, two axes, and an adz; which pleased him so much, that he promised to supply me daily with such necessaries as I might want during my stay. In the mean time the general trade had been carried on so briskly, that by noon, not only the officers, but the men, were possessed of a variety of articles, many of which, though pleased with them for the moment, they afterwards threw away as useless and cumbersome. Though the islanders took knives and small looking-glasses in exchange for their goods, they always gave the preference to our printed and common coarse linens, while pieces of iron hoop, of which we had a great number, were held by them in no estimation. As a compliment, I invited the chief of the bay to dine with us; and I had the satisfaction, of observing the keen appetite with which be honoured our repast, and the handsome manner in which he afterwards paid his respects to the bottle, filling his glass alternately with Portwine and brandy, till he became so inebriated, that it was with difficulty we could get him out of the ship.
   As night approached, the vessel was again surrounded by the female troop, who had so kindly offered us their company the preceding evening, aud who now seemed resolved upon intrusion, if not admitted freely to our society. But I made known to them the impossibility of their succeeding in their attempt; and I requested also the interference of the chief, who gave orders that all his people, male and female, should in future leave the ship at sun-set. In consequence of this injunction, we found ourselves generally alone, as soon as our ensign was lowered; and it must be confessed, that, after the noise and bustle of the day, which were hardly supportable, this change of scene was very agreeable to us. The cause of my peremptori-ness as to these female visitors, was the fear of their introducing among my crew a certain disease, which, I had been given to understand, was very prevalent in the Sandwich Islands; and certainly the persons of several of the inhabitants, of both sexes, bore evident marks of its ravages. In spite of Mr. Young's prohibition, we purchased during the day two large hogs, two smaller ones, two goats, ten fowls, and cocoa-nuts, sweet potatoes, tarro-root, and sugar-cane, in abundance.
   In the morning of the 13th, we were again surrounded by isth. canoes. About noon the chief brought us four large hogs, one of which he gave roe as a present, while for the others I was obliged to pay a. bar and a half of iron. I offered him several other articles by way of exchange; but he refused them all, signifying that these animals belonged tor the king, who had given directions that they should be sold far bar-iron only. Besides these, we purchased, in the course of the morning, twelve more small ones, and as many fowls.
   In the afternoon, I informed the chief of my intention of paying him a visit on shore, with some of my officers. He seemed much pleased, and immediately left us, to prepare for our reception. In the mean time our long-boat was armed, and towards evening we left the ship. The surf was so heavy at the village of Caracacoa, that we were obliged to land at a place called Yainoonohala, where we were met by the chief, who informed me, that he had enjoined taboo on the people every where around. The consequence of this was, that, during our stay on shore, no one dared to quit his house; and our walk, which would otherwise have been rendered disagreeable by the crowd, proved to be extremely pleasant.
   After passing, some poor cottages, we came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, many of which we observed had marks of shot; and we afterwards learned, that these trees had been struck by the guns from the English ships, after the unfortunate affray in which captain Cook lost his life.
   On quitting this grove, we proceeded along the beach; but the surf was so great, that we were completely wet before we reached Caracacoa. The chief had gone by another road, alleging, that he could not with propriety pass in front of a temple, which we should see on our way. The first object we met with, deserving of notice, was a large building, in which a schooner that had belonged to captain Vancouver, was kept. Here the chief joined us, and, after showing us his double canoe, that was on the stocks, but not yet finished, conducted us first to his own house, and afterwards to the palace of the king. This palace differed from the common habitations of the island in size only. It consisted of six distinct huts, erected near a tolerably large pond of stagnated water. The first hut we entered, constituted the king's dining-room, the second his drawing-room, the third and fourth the apartments of his women, while the last two served for kitchens. These huts, which were all alike, were constructed of poles, and covered with leaves. In some of them, the door was the only means of admitting light, while others had two small windows for the purpose; one near the corner, in front, and the other near the same corner, in the side of the hut. They are all erected upon a sort of pavement of stone, and are enclosed. I know not in what state the palace is kept during the king's residence in it, but when we saw' it, it was uncommonly filthy: it is, however, held by the natives in such high veneration, that no one presumes to enter it, with any covering on his body, except the maro9 which is merely a piece of cloth tied round the waist. Our chief, on entering it, took off his hat, his shoes, and the great coat we had given him, though none of the natives were present.
   From the palace we went to the royal temple, which is a small hut, fenced round with paling. Before the entrance stands a statue of a middling size, and further on to the left six large idols are seen. We were not permitted to enter this holy place, in which, we were told, his majesty takes his meals during the taboo days. Near to this was another enclosed spot, containing different idols: but the chief, who was our guide, spoke English so indifferently, that we could scarcely understand a word of what he said respecting it On approaching the great temple, called by the natives Heavoo, not Moral, as some navigators have said, the chief refused to follow us, signifying that, as he was not of the first nobility of the island, he could not with propriety enter it This was rather mortifying to us, as we might stand in need of his assistance: he was not, however, to be persuaded, and we were obliged to proceed alone. This temple is merely a piece of ground, enclosed chiefly with wooden rails, but here and there with stones, and of the form of an oblong square, the extent of which is about fifty yards by thirty. On the side towards the mountains is a group of fifteen idols, which were wrapped in cloth from the waist downwards; and before them a platform, made of poles, is erected, called the place of sacrifice, on which we saw a roasted pig, and some plantains and cocoa-nuts. On the side to the right of the group of fifteen, are two other statues; further on, on the same side, is an altar with three more; and on the opposite side another group of three, one of which is in a state of great decay. On the side towards the sea stands a small cottage, which is also in a ruinous state. The several groups of figures were arranged so as to form within the enclosure a sort of semicircle. During our research we were joined by the chief priest of the temple, who informed us, that the fifteen statues wrapped in cloth, represented the gods of war; the two to the right of the place of sacrifice, the gods of spring; those on the opposite side, the guardians of autumn; and that the altar was dedicated to the god of joy, before which the islanders dance and sing on festivals appointed by their religion.
   These temples were by no means calculated to excite in the mind of a stranger religious veneration. They are suffered to remain in so neglected and filthy a condition, that, were it not for the statues, they might be taken rather for hog-sties than places of worship. The statues, meanwhile, are carved in the rudest manner: the heads of some of them are a great deal larger than the body. Some are without tongues, while others have tongues of a frightful size. Some again bear huge blocks of wood on their heads, and have mouths reaching from ear to ear.
   In coming out of this place, we leaped over a low stone fence; while the priest came out by a narrow opening; observing, that to do as we did, would be a crime in him punishable with death. There are many laws of this nature, which strangers should be careful of observing; though transgressions are not so strictly punished in them as in the natives.
   From the temple we returned to the place where we had landed, by another road, so strewed with loose and rugged stones, that we were every moment in danger of falling. As I passed the different habitations, I could not help observing that hogs and dogs were the constant com {Vanions of their masters, with whom they fed, and lived; which occasioned a general fiithiness, disgusting to more senses than one. I was surprised at not meeting, during this excursion, with more than three or four bread-fruit trees: the best grounds were covered with a plant, from which, I was told, a good Ted dye is extracted.
   As soon as we had embarked in our boats, the people, who had kept within their houses in consequence of the taboo, ran out in crowds, loudly wishing us a good night On getting on board, I was sorry to find that scarcely any thing had been purchased in our absence.

14th.

   In the morning of the 14th the barter for provisions commenced briskly; but on the arrival of the chief of the bay on board it almost instantly ceased. Suspecting this personage to be the cause of the change, I ordered him out of the ship; and I had the satisfaction to find that I was right in my conjecture, for immediately on his departure the traffic was renewed, and I obtained a considerable quantity of live stock. To enhance the price, a report was spread that a large ship had arrived in the bay of Toovyhy, and that Mr. Young was gone to visit her, which was the reason we had not yet seen this gentleman. I however doubted the truth of the report, and it failed of its end.

15th.

   The next morning Mr. Young arrived. He expressed much sorrow at not having waited upon us sooner; declaring, at the same time, that he had not been informed till yesterday of our arrival. Concluding that this arose from the intriguing disposition of our chief, I determined to, punish his knavery, by not inviting him to our dinner of to-day; which he felt so keenly, that, to make amends, he gave me a large hog, at the same time owning his fault, and promising never to conduct himself towards me in any under-hand manner again. On this promise I forgave him, and we were once more friends.
   Mr. Young had brought with him six hogs, two of which he made me a present of, but asked me for the other four a piece and half of canvass, assuring me they belonged to the king, who had set this price upon them. I however declined purchasing them at so exorbitant a rate, and they were sent on shore.
   In the afternoon we made a party to go to the village of Tavaroa, to see the memorable spot where Europe had been deprived of her most celebrated navigator, captain Cook. We landed at the very rock on which this truly great man lost his life; and were afterwards shown the part of a mountain where his body had been burned. This mountain has several excavations, in which the bones of the dead are deposited; and one in particular is said to contain the precious remains of the kings of the island, down to the last deceased Tyreboo.
   Tavaroa bears much resemblance to the other villages which I saw in the island: it has a mean appearance, and contains nine heavoos, which we could not enter on account of the absence of the priests: they differed, however, from the great heavoo in no respect but the size. They were dedicated to different deities, and belonged to the different chiefs of the country, who were then in the army with the king.
   After walking about for a while, we stopped to pay our reapects to an old lady, the sister of the great chief of Tavaroa. She was about ninety years of age, and perfectly blind. On Mr. Young's introducing me, she took my hand, and would have kissed it, if I would have permitted the condescension. She was sitting under a large tree, surrounded by a crowd of young people, who seemed to amuse themselves with the oddity of her appearance. She talked chiefly of her attachment to Europeans, and greatly lamented the death of captain Cook.
   The environs of this village exhibit scarcely any signs of verdure. The ground is covered with pieces of lava, which are used here for a fence to the houses. On our return to the ship, we found on board some sailors belonging to the United States; one of whom, during the preceding year, had been on the north-west coast of America. He informed us that the Russian settlement of Archangel, in Sitca, or Norfolk Sound, had been destroyed by the natives; to which I was the more inclined to give credit, from its corresponding with what had appeared in the Hamburgh papers previous to our departure from Europe.

16th.

   Having furnished myself with what provisions I wanted, I determined to put to sea; and on the 16th, the ship being unmoored, we set sail at nine in the evening with a land-breeze, which blows pretty regularly in this bay. On inspecting our two cables, we found them both very much chafed, though the anchors had been let go on a clean sandy bottom. From this circumstance, I would recommend ships to bring-to a little further from the place where we anchored, towards the precipice, where a soft bottom was found by our soundings; and it might be prudent to buoy up the cables even there.
   We had not been long under way, before the wind fell: however, I was determined rather to tow the ship out, than to anchor again, especially as the night promised to be calm. On clearing the bay, we had a few light breezes, but they soon died away, which obliged us to tow hard, with all the boats a-head, to keep out of danger. In the morning I dismissed Mr. Johns, my interpreter, after having recompensed him for the services he had rendered us, and given him a few trifling presents for his chief, who had sent me a pig a few days before, and had further intended me the honour of a visit, but had been prevented by the sudden death of his wife. For Mr. Young's civilities, when he left us the preceding evening, I filled his canoe with biscuits, porter, brandy, and wine.

17th.

   At day-break of the 17th, we found ourselves about six miles from the bay, and at noon had an observation in latitude 19° 34' 49" north. The north end of Carracacoa bore south 67° east, and the west point of the island was north 6° west. At six in the afternoon a breeze sprung up, with which we reached the western point of Owyhee. We should now have distinctly seen the island of Mov6, but the weather was So thick and cloudy, that its summits alone were visible. From what we experienced it may be inferred, that beyond the north point of the bay of Carracacoa the current sets to the north-west, though short of that, it runs directly against the point itself. Vessels therefore should be upon their guard when near this place in calm weather.

18th.

   In the morning of the 18th, the wind blew so strong at north-east, that the ship went at the rate of eight miles and a half an hour. This was a very agreeable change, after the tiresome calm of the two preceding days.
   On leaving Carracacoa, I purposed making for the island of Waboo, to see the king of Owyhee, who was there with his army. So great indeed was my curiosity on this subject, that to gratify it, I would have sacrificed a few days to the business nearest my heart, that of arriving at Cadiack. Learning, however, that a species of epidemic disease was raging in that island, I relinquished my intention, and took my course for Otooway.
   By observation at noon, we found ourselves in latitude 20° 20' north, and longitude by the chronometers, No. 136 and 50, by which I shall reckon for the future, 157° 42' west.

19th.

   On the 19th, at five o'clock in the morning, the island of Otooway appeared to the north-west, and at eight we passed the south end of it. On reaching the bay of Weymea, I brought-to, to wait for four canoes that were paddling towards us. In one of them were five men; the others had only a man in each. They had nothing to sell but a few spears, and a fan of exquisite beauty, made of the feathers of the tropic birds, which I obtained for a small knife.
   The wind blew fresh till we came up with the west end of the bland, where we were perfectly becalmed; the currents, however, dragging us till night, and forcing us between the islands of Otooway and Onihoo. Meanwhile the king of these islands, whose name was Tamoory, paid us a visit. On entering the ship, he accosted me in English, and presented at the same time several certificates of recommendation, as he supposed, that had been given him by the commanders of the different vessels which had touched at Otooway: but, on inspecting these papers, I found that some of them were by no means in his favour; and I gave him a hint on the subject; and advised him for the future to be more obliging to those of whom he wished to receive testimonials of his honourable conduct, and to treat better European navigators, who prefer at present touching at the island of Owyhee.
   On hearing that we had just left that island, he was anxious to know what was doing there. I informed him that the king was at present on the island of Wahoo; and that he would have been at Otooway long ago, but for an epidemic disease, which had spread amongst his troops, and would perhaps oblige him to relinquish his conquests, and return home. This intelligence was extremely gratifying to our royal visitor; who, however, assured me, that, happen what would, he was determined to defend himself to the last; adding, that he had thirty thousand warriors on the island, meaning, probably, all the inhabitants, amongst whom were five Europeans; that he had besides, three six-pounders, forty swivels, a number of muskets, and plenty of powder and ball.
   The king was waited on in the vessel by one of his subjects, who carried a small wooden bason, a feather fan, and a towel. The bason was set round with human teeth, which, I was told afterwards, had belonged to his majesty's deceased friends. It was intended for the king to spiff in; but he; did not appear to make much use of it, far he was continually spitting about the deck without ceremony.
   On quitting us, he expressed some displeasure at my not being willing to spare him either bar iron or paint, the last of which he very much wanted, to finish a vessel, he said, he was building. He did not, however, refuse to accept of a blanket, and other more trifling articles, of which I made him a present.
   During his stay with us, by some accident one of his canoes overset; but it was soon righted again. Things of this kind very frequently happen; but the islanders are so expert in swimming, that no misfortune ensues.
   The island of Otooway is high, and, in clear weather, may be seen at a great distance. The shore, on the western side, rises gradually from the water; and, from its numberless habitations, which appear better built than those of the island of Owyhee, presents every where a most beautiful landscape. I am sorry to say, that there is not a single good anchorage round the whole island, except in Weymea Bay, which is also exposed to westerly winds.
   The island of Onihoo, with its two small islets or rocks, is situated to the west of Otooway. It produces such an abundance of sweet potatoes, and other esculent roots, that ships may be supplied with them in any quantity.
   From the increasing importance of the Sandwich islands, I shall devote a chapter to a further account of them; in which, I trust, will be found some particulars curious and interesting.

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